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Licorice Cosmetic Ingredient

Glabridin Licorice Extract
Glabridin Licorice Extract“Whitening gold”Glabridin is a chemical compound that is found in the root extract of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra).Glabridin is an isoflavane, a type of isoflavonoid. This product is part of a larger family of plant-derived molecules, the natural phenols.
It is used as an ingredient in cosmetics and is listed in International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients .
【CAS NO】59870-68-7
【Molecular Formula】C20H20O4
【Molecular Weight】324.38
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Glabridin licorice extract

“Whitening gold”Glabridin is a chemical compound that is found in the root extract of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra).Glabridin is an isoflavane, a type of isoflavonoid. This product is part of a larger family of plant-derived molecules, the natural phenols.

It is used as an ingredient in cosmetics and is listed in International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients .

【CAS NO】59870-68-7

【Molecular Formula】C20H20O4

【Molecular Weight】324.38

【structural formula】    

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Appearance】Glabridin is yellowish-brown powder.

Solubility】It is insoluble in water, but soluble in organic solvents such as propylene glycol

Specfication】≥40% (HPLC)

Glabridin (whitening gold)\(licorice whitening essence PT-40) can penetrate deep into the skin and maintain high activity, whiten and effectively resist oxidation. To inhibit the activity of various enzymes in the process of melanin production, especially to inhibit the activity of tyramine. It also has the effect of preventing skin roughness and anti - inflammation and antibacterial. The radix glycyrrhizae is the most effective and comprehensive whitening ingredient. Light licorice is the white cosmetic additive introduced by MARUZEN of Japan in 1989. After years of use, the effect is obvious, the security is good. It is the main functional component of the international premium whitening cosmetics. Besides Japanese and Korean cosmetics companies, Lancome, Dior, Sonia Rykiel and Chanel are also widely used.

Photoglycyrrhizin is used in cosmetics :

1. Whitening, inhibiting melanin;

2. Anti-inflammatory;

3. 3. Antioxidant.

The hydrophobic composition of licorice extract has a good anti-inflammation and whitening effect. Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizic acid also have anti-inflammatory effects. These hydrophobic ingredients have glycyrrhiza and other flavonoids, which have the effect of inhibiting melanin. The activity of photoglycyrrhizin inhibiting melanin production has been done in vivo and in vitro.

Other effects of folding edit this section.

In a comprehensive experiment conducted by Yokota et al., the efficacy of photoglycyrrhizin in inhibiting melanin and anti-inflammation was examined, and the relationship between the structure and its efficacy was also studied. In order to test the whitening activity of the radix glycyrrhizae, the experiment used ultraviolet light to illuminate the brown back of the guinea pig, and then the experiment was applied with 0.5% of licorice. Found the light liquorice can significantly reduce pigmentation, caused by ultraviolet irradiation at the same time also to the histologic study of daub skin, this part of the skin tissue with 0.1% dopamine daub, calculated by optical microscope every square millimeter area dopamine response in the positive number of melanocytes. Thus, the inhibition ability of photoglycyrrhizin on melanin formation was estimated. After surface tissue study, it was found that the doped positive melanocytes of the drug group decreased, and the use of licorice could also increase the luster of the skin. The researchers concluded that the glycyrrhiza in liquorice root not only inhibits melanin formation, but also anti-inflammatory. It is also observed that these effects are related to its chemical structure.

The main mechanism of the inhibition of melanin is as follows:

Folding inhibits tyrosinase.

Human tyrosinase is an essential enzyme that produces melanin regularly, making the skin or eyes black from brown. We know that the skin is exposed to uv light can cause some reactions (such as inflammation), because of the skin tissue of phospholipid membrane damaged by uv induced reactive oxygen species, occurrence erythema of floor of this kind of change is histologically for and pigmentation. Reactive oxygen is a substance that causes pigmentation in the skin, so inhibiting it can inhibit the production of melanin.

Fold anti-inflammatory action.

Light liquorice is verified by experiment on anti-inflammatory activity, irradiation of ultraviolet to guinea pigs caused pigmentation, and then use the 0.5% light liquorice solution daub, found the light liquorice alleviate the inflammation of the skin caused by uv stimulus. Use a to denote erythema on the skin. The degree of inflammation reduction can be calculated by recording the a value (color meter reading) of the radix glycyrrhizae before and after irradiation. The activity of cyclooxidase was studied by the researchers. Cyclic oxidase is an enzyme that converts arachidonic acid into prostaglandins, and prostaglandins are the cause of inflammation. Compared with the control group (using the current cyclic oxidase inhibitor, indene), the action of inhibiting cyclooxygenase was achieved. It is believed that the glycyrrhiza glycyrrhizin can reduce the inflammation by inhibiting the production of arachidonic acid by inhibiting cyclo oxidase.

Fold antioxidant action.

Licorice has antioxidant properties and can whiten (inhibit the formation of melanin) and resist inflammation. It is reported that licorice can be used to reduce the corticosteroids of infectious skin diseases, and can strengthen the role of steroids.

The application of folding in cosmetics.

It has excellent anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation and anti-melanin formation, so it is a component of various cosmetics and medical care products (such as face cream, lotion, body wash, etc.). It can be made into white face cream, and now it has such patented products.

Dosage: in cosmetics, in order to achieve the whitening effect, the recommended dosage of the patent is 0.001-3%, preferably 0.001-1%. With glycerin 1:10, low temperature. It has excellent tyrosinase inhibitory activity, can prevent tanning, streaking and sunburn, and the recommended dosage is 0.0007-0.05%. In order to suppress male hormones and to treat acne, the dosage of licorice was 0.01 to 0.5%.

Chinese scientists also studied the preparation of liposome and its application in beauty cosmetics. The results showed that the liposomes were successfully prepared by liposomes and preparation techniques. Light liquorice liposomes of phospholipid bilayer membrane is similar to the biological membrane, easy to produce biological fusion, promote the effect of components of biological membrane penetrability, make efficacy components across the skin barrier and biological membrane efficiency is higher, the spot in improve and enhance the skin whitening effect, and other auxiliary effect has a positive role.

Folding market situation

At present, the most common Glabridin in the market is 40% Glabridin, mainly liquorice flavonoids, brown or white powder. The United States is Sabinsa international light liquorice, is one of the earlier production for producing light set 40% Glabridin from licorice extract, licorice root so called licorice flavonoids, is the best active ingredients licorice whitening effect. In the world of cosmetics, it is known as "whitening gold". 40% of Glabridin's use was 0.001-1%, with peg-400 dissolved in 1:8, and low temperature added at the end of the recipe.

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